The Banana Pancake Trail: A One Month Itinerary Through Four Countries flagHomeThailandThe Banana Pancake Trail: A One Month Itinerary Through Four Countries

The Banana Pancake Trail: A One Month Itinerary Through Four Countries

The Banana Pancake Trail is the classic Southeast Asia backpacker loop, named after the banana pancakes that turned up on guesthouse menus all along it. This one month route follows it through four countries: northern Thailand, the slow boat into Laos, Vietnam from Hanoi to Hoi An, then Angkor and the Cambodian islands.

Ilse
Ilse · Asia & Oceania
11 min read · Updated 2026-10-29
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29
days
10
stops

It is built for backpackers who want a new crew at every stop and a bed waiting at the end of every leg. Every night is at a Mad Monkey hostel, so you always know where you are sleeping, and the people at the bar are usually heading the same way as you.

You would not be the only one crossing borders. More than half of the 268,000 Thailand trips planned with Stippl also take in another country, and this loop is the classic way to do it.

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Is one month enough for the Banana Pancake Trail?

Yes, if you keep it to ten stops and fly the two long legs. The overland stretch from Vientiane to Hanoi, and from Vietnam's centre down to Angkor, would cost you days on buses, so this route takes a flight on both. What one month is not enough for is the whole of Vietnam, which is why the route jumps from Hoi An straight to Siem Reap. If you have longer, add nights in Pai and on Koh Rong rather than another stop.

The route at a glance

10 stops, 29 nights, one Mad Monkey at every stop.

StopNightsSleepHow you get there
Bangkok2Mad Monkey BangkokYour arrival flight
Chiang Mai3Mad Monkey Chiang MaiNight train or a short flight
Pai3Mad Monkey PaiMinivan up the mountain road, about 3 hours
Luang Prabang3Mad Monkey Luang PrabangMinivan to Huay Xai, then the two day slow boat down the Mekong, with a night in Pakbeng
Vang Vieng3Mad Monkey Vang ViengHigh speed train, about an hour
Hanoi3Mad Monkey HanoiTrain to Vientiane, then a flight to Hanoi
Hoi An3Mad Monkey Hoi AnFly to Da Nang, then about 45 minutes by road
Siem Reap3Mad Monkey Siem ReapFly from Da Nang to Siem Reap, usually via Ho Chi Minh City
Phnom Penh2Mad Monkey Phnom PenhBus, about 6 hours
Koh Rong4Mad Monkey Koh RongBus to Sihanoukville, then a speedboat

Best time: November to March, the dry season across most of the route. That is also high season, so book the slow boat and the Laos train ahead.

Days 1 to 2

Bangkok

2 nights

Bangkok is where most Southeast Asia trips begin, and where most travellers realise on day one that the traffic, not the distance, is what sets the pace. Base yourself near Khao San Road and the old royal island is on your doorstep.

Day 1Arrive and settle in at Khao San

Land, drop your bags and do nothing ambitious. Walk the lanes around Khao San Road and Rambuttri, find your first pad thai and be at the hostel bar for the evening Meet Up, which is the fastest way to find people heading the same way as you.

Day 2Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun

Be at the Grand Palace when it opens, before the coach groups and the heat, and keep walking south to Wat Pho for the 46 metre reclining Buddha. Then take the little cross river ferry to Wat Arun, one of the few temples in Bangkok you can actually climb.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Bangkok sits in Rambuttri Village, a street back from Khao San Road: close enough to walk to the noise, far enough to sleep. Pool, nightly events and the old town a short walk away. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Bangkok.

Days 3 to 5

Chiang Mai

3 nights

The north shows you a completely different Thailand: temples inside a moated old city, cooler mountain air and a slower rhythm than Bangkok.

Getting there: Night train or a short flight.

Day 3Arrive and walk the Old City

Walk the Old City from the hostel: Wat Chedi Luang, a ruined fourteenth century stupa ringed by stone elephants, and Wat Phra Singh with its Lion Buddha and the city's finest Lanna architecture.

Day 4Doi Suthep above the city

Head up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep early, the city's most sacred temple, with a golden chedi and the whole of Chiang Mai spread out below. In the evening the Night Bazaar has souvenirs, street food and a Muay Thai ring.

Day 5Doi Inthanon or the Sunday market

Spend the day on Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest peak, with its twin royal pagodas, waterfalls and cloud forest. If your stay covers a Sunday, finish on the Walking Street, when Rachadamnoen Road closes to traffic for stalls and street performers.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Chiang Mai is a pool hostel just outside the Old City moat, so the temples are a walk away and the nights out start at the bar. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Chiang Mai.

See our Chiang Mai guide for more on what to do there.

Days 6 to 8

Pai

3 nights

Pai is a small town in a mountain valley that travellers plan one night for and stay a week. Rent a scooter if you ride, because almost everything worth seeing is a short ride out of town.

Getting there: Minivan up the mountain road, about 3 hours.

Day 6Up the mountain road to Pai

The minivan from Chiang Mai climbs the famous road with hundreds of bends, so sit near the front if you get carsick. Once you arrive, slow down, and spend the evening on the Walking Street, where the main road turns into a lantern lit market every night.

Day 7Bamboo bridge, White Buddha and the canyon

Ride out to the Kho Ku So bamboo bridge, an 800 metre walkway across the rice paddies built for the monks. Climb the 353 steps to the White Buddha for the best free view of the valley, then finish at Pai Canyon for the sunset everyone comes for.

Day 8Sunrise, waterfall and the cave

Get up for sunrise at Yun Lai viewpoint, above a sea of morning mist. Cool off on the natural rock slides at Mo Paeng Waterfall, or ride further out to Tham Lod Cave and raft its underground river.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Pai sits across the river from town, with a pool and the mountains all around, so you get the quiet of the valley and the Walking Street within reach. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Pai.

A dirt path in the middle of a forest, Pai Canyon, Thailand
Photo by Peter Borter via Unsplash
Days 9 to 11

Luang Prabang

3 nights

Luang Prabang is the slowest, most beautiful town on the whole trail: monks, gilded temples and French era villas on a peninsula between two rivers.

Getting there: Minivan to Huay Xai, then the two day slow boat down the Mekong, with a night in Pakbeng.

Day 9Arrive by slow boat

The two day slow boat down the Mekong is part of the trip, not a transfer, and it lands you here in the late afternoon. Walk up Phousi Hill for sunset over the whole peninsula, then wander the night market, when the main street closes and fills with stalls.

Day 10Kuang Si and its turquoise pools

Spend the day at Kuang Si, turquoise limestone terraces you can swim in. Go early, before the day trips arrive, and bring something to change into.

Day 11Wat Xiengthong and the morning market

Get up for the morning market, which is there for locals rather than for you, and that is the point. Then visit Wat Xiengthong, whose roof sweeps almost to the ground, and the Royal Palace museum, where the rooms were left as they were when the monarchy ended in 1975.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Luang Prabang is just outside the old town, with an infinity pool that faces the sunset. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Luang Prabang.

A white and gold building with steps leading up to it
Photo by Life on the road via Unsplash

See our Luang Prabang guide for more on what to do there.

Days 12 to 14

Vang Vieng

3 nights

Vang Vieng has grown up since its party only days. The karst landscape is the reason to come now: caves, lagoons and viewpoints, all a scooter ride from town.

Getting there: High speed train, about an hour.

Day 12High speed train south

The new high speed train takes you from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng in about an hour. Spend the afternoon in Tham Chang, the easy cave with the valley framed in its mouth.

Day 13Blue Lagoon and Tham Poukham

Ride out to the Blue Lagoon, with its jumping tree and the cave above it, and scramble up to Tham Poukham for the reclining Buddha inside. The scramble is slippery, so wear proper shoes.

Day 14Viewpoints over the karst

Climb Nam Xay viewpoint, the hardest short climb in town and the one everyone names, or the gentler Pha Ngern Silver Cliff viewpoint with platforms built for the picture.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Vang Vieng has a sunset pool and pub crawls, in the town that was built for them. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Vang Vieng.

Days 15 to 17

Hanoi

3 nights

Hanoi is loud, crowded and endlessly good to walk, and the Old Quarter is where you want to be. Everything on this list is a walk or a short ride from Ma May Street.

Getting there: Train to Vientiane, then a flight to Hanoi.

Day 15Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake

Fly in from Vientiane and walk to Hoan Kiem Lake, which the whole city is arranged around. Cross the red Huc Bridge to Ngoc Son Temple, then catch the water puppets in the evening, a thousand year old art performed waist deep in a pool.

Day 16Temple of Literature and Hoa Lo Prison

Spend the morning at the Temple of Literature, Vietnam's first university and the quietest place in the city. In the afternoon, visit Hoa Lo Prison, built by the French for Vietnamese revolutionaries and later nicknamed the Hanoi Hilton.

Day 17Ho Chi Minh and West Lake

See Ho Chi Minh lying in state at his mausoleum, against the instructions in his own will, then walk to Tran Quoc Pagoda, the oldest in Hanoi, on its own islet in West Lake.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Hanoi is on Ma May Street in the Old Quarter, where backpackers meet in Hanoi. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Hanoi.

See our Hanoi guide for more on what to do there.

Days 18 to 20

Hoi An

3 nights

Hoi An is the lantern town: a fifteenth century trading port that survived almost whole, with rice paddies and a beach just outside it.

Getting there: Fly to Da Nang, then about 45 minutes by road.

Day 18Fly to Da Nang, lanterns at night

Fly from Hanoi to Da Nang and ride down to Hoi An. In the evening, walk the Ancient Town and cross to the night market on An Hoi islet, the source of most lantern photographs you have ever seen.

Day 19Ancient Town and the covered bridge

See the Ancient Town properly by day: the Japanese Covered Bridge with a temple built into its side, and Tan Ky Old House, home to seven generations of one merchant family.

Day 20Basket boats and An Bang Beach

Head out to Cam Thanh coconut village for a spin in a round basket boat between the water palms, then cycle through the rice paddies to An Bang Beach for the afternoon.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Hoi An throws its pool parties on Cua Dai Road, between the lantern town and the beach. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Hoi An.

People walking between food stalls under chinese lanterns
Photo by Chris Slupski via Unsplash
Days 21 to 23

Siem Reap

3 nights

Siem Reap exists because of Angkor, and three days is the least you want for it. Buy a multi day temple pass so you can split the temples over several early mornings.

Getting there: Fly from Da Nang to Siem Reap, usually via Ho Chi Minh City.

Day 21Arrive and visit the museum

Arrive, check in and spend the afternoon at the Angkor National Museum: air conditioned Khmer history that makes the temples make sense, best done before them rather than after.

Day 22Angkor Wat at sunrise

Be at Angkor Wat for sunrise, the largest religious monument on earth. Then carry on to the Bayon at the centre of Angkor Thom, with its 216 stone faces, and Ta Prohm, the temple half swallowed by strangler figs.

Day 23Banteay Srei or the lake

Go further out to Banteay Srei, the finest carving in the whole park, or head to Kampong Phluk, a village of stilt houses on the edge of a lake that quadruples in size every monsoon.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Siem Reap has two pools, something on every night and Pub Street within walking distance. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Siem Reap.

Historic Angkor Wat temple in Cambodia, surrounded by lush greenery
Photo by Angkor wat tuktuk driver By kakada via Pexels

See our Siem Reap guide for more on what to do there.

Days 24 to 25

Phnom Penh

2 nights

Phnom Penh is the capital, and the place where you learn the history that shapes the whole country. Give it at least two nights, and give yourself time after the hardest day.

Getting there: Bus, about 6 hours.

Day 24Royal Palace and the riverside

Visit the Royal Palace, still the King's residence, and the Silver Pagoda, whose floor is five thousand silver tiles. End the day on Sisowath Riverside at the meeting of four rivers, the city's best hour.

Day 25Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields

This is the hard day. Tuol Sleng is the school the Khmer Rouge turned into a prison, left largely as it was found, and Choeung Ek, the Killing Fields, is fifteen kilometres south. Take the audio guide at both, and keep the evening quiet.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Phnom Penh has a pool and a rooftop bar, and it is the hostel everyone ends up in. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Phnom Penh.

Days 26 to 29

Koh Rong

4 nights

Koh Rong is where the trail slows to a stop: white sand, warm water and nothing to do but pick a beach.

Getting there: Bus to Sihanoukville, then a speedboat.

Day 26Speedboat to the island

Take the speedboat from Sihanoukville to Koh Rong. The ferry lands at Kaoh Touch, where the bars are and where the island happens, and Long Set Beach is a twenty minute walk away from the noise.

Day 27Long Set Beach

Spend a full day on Long Set, four kilometres of white sand right outside the hostel. This is the day to do nothing at all.

Day 28Sok San and the west coast

Head down the west coast to Sok San, the longest beach on the island, for a day that feels a long way from anywhere.

Day 29Coconut Beach or Pagoda Beach

Use your last day for the quiet corners: Coconut Beach, a small palm backed bay on the far east coast, or the golden sand and working pagoda at Pagoda Beach.

Sleep: Mad Monkey Koh Rong is right on Long Set Beach, with its own beach bar. Book a bed at Mad Monkey Koh Rong.

See our Koh Rong guide for more on what to do there.

Getting between stops

FromToHow
BangkokChiang MaiNight train or a short flight
Chiang MaiPaiMinivan up the mountain road, about 3 hours
PaiLuang PrabangMinivan to Huay Xai, then the two day slow boat down the Mekong, with a night in Pakbeng
Luang PrabangVang ViengHigh speed train, about an hour
Vang ViengHanoiTrain to Vientiane, then a flight to Hanoi
HanoiHoi AnFly to Da Nang, then about 45 minutes by road
Hoi AnSiem ReapFly from Da Nang to Siem Reap, usually via Ho Chi Minh City
Siem ReapPhnom PenhBus, about 6 hours
Phnom PenhKoh RongBus to Sihanoukville, then a speedboat

Times are a guide. Check the day before you travel, because boat and minivan times change with the season and the weather.

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Frequently asked questions about Thailand

One month is enough for ten stops in four countries if you fly the two long legs: Laos to Hanoi and Vietnam to Siem Reap. More time is best spent on longer stays, not more stops.

Most travellers need a visa or an e-visa for Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, and the rules differ by nationality. Check each country's official site before you go, and apply for the Vietnam e-visa before you fly to Hanoi.

Yes. The loop works in reverse, starting on the Cambodian islands and ending in Bangkok. The slow boat then runs upstream, which takes longer.

In high season, book the first stops and the busy islands ahead. Further along, many travellers book a few days out as their plans settle.

It is the nickname for the well travelled backpacker route through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, named after the banana pancakes served in guesthouses along the way.

Want this route with the nights already filled in? Open it in Stippl, change the nights, add a stop or swap the order, and keep the whole trip in one place. Or build your own Mad Monkey route on our Mad Monkey page.

Lush palm tree by azure sea on Koh Rong, Cambodia's pristine beach
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